Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Ellz’s LsFd build

Just had a very interesting chat with a Uk based company about providing me with a gps based speed signal generator to run the stock speedo, after searching for hours yesterday to find one that outputs the correct signal I found a company that will calibrate it for my use
Because the bmw box I’m using doesn’t output a vehicle speed signal I’m out of luck really with other methods without adding trigger wheels to stuff and faffing around with calibrating
 
Coming on well buddy.

Other option is to buy a gps based speed gauge. I have fitted speedhut in mine.
 
Just had a very interesting chat with a Uk based company about providing me with a gps based speed signal generator to run the stock speedo, after searching for hours yesterday to find one that outputs the correct signal I found a company that will calibrate it for my use
Because the bmw box I’m using doesn’t output a vehicle speed signal I’m out of luck really with other methods without adding trigger wheels to stuff and faffing around with calibrating

Have a look at a digital Dakota GPS 50-2, it might be what you’re after.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....t_id=837/category_id=646/mode=prod/prd837.htm

Failing that you might be able to use a digital Dakota SGI-5e and use one of the ABS sensors as an input to it.

Also both the Rev counter and speedo have pots on the circuit boards for calibration, so what ever method you use for the input signal you can fine tune dial for accuracy.
 
I
Have a look at a digital Dakota GPS 50-2, it might be what you’re after.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....t_id=837/category_id=646/mode=prod/prd837.htm

Failing that you might be able to use a digital Dakota SGI-5e and use one of the ABS sensors as an input to it.

Also both the Rev counter and speedo have pots on the circuit boards for calibration, so what ever method you use for the input signal you can fine tune dial for accuracy.
had a look at the Dakota one but being a tight bastard I didn’t even consider it, the one I found should work perfect for considerably less but time will tell
 
I don’t know what ECU/ PCM you’re using but if it’s the standard one it might be worth checking if the ECU needs the speed signal, as some of the tables, translation between tables and certain functions are dependant on this signal
 
Wheel speed sensors for the ABS?
ABS Speed sensors are not hall effect and can enduce dangerous voltages to an ecu,

Another way is use a hall effect with square wave convertor or even without the convertor and feed the stock clocks.

The stock clocks have a sine wave to square wave convertor built in, thats how i got speed input to hondata,

another way is get a 3 pin crank sensor and mount off the prop with 4 tabs welded to the prop :)
 
I've never had any issues with my ABS speed sensors with the link, did it specifically so I could have traction control at some stage. There are specific digital inputs on the link so it may be more resilient.
 
Steering parts arrived to correct the bump steer
Lots of other parts arrived too including my gps sender for the clocks
Props done had a nightmare trying to find some thin wall m10 bolts to bolt the diff to the prop turns out they’re also used on Kawasaki bikes

Hopefully this is the final push and it might be ready for retro rides gathering on the 18th

🙏

D63EE2F6-E30A-441F-98D0-483950F674A2.jpeg


E2BAD6AE-D6FE-4C09-8C08-B33AF2E0ABB0.jpeg


2D9E9A32-EC9C-4818-8EA8-C4DF7D20A36D.jpeg


0FA77E91-DB59-4D8E-B6BD-EC30820C5B53.jpeg


C3AD0EFE-F8F0-4F52-8B52-F7ECCE744674.jpeg


A137E021-8B0E-4D07-8ACB-17393D48EBCD.jpeg


1A8E54F7-3702-46CA-8E3E-723180097461.jpeg
 
saweeet I see you daily a honda.. Good engines in them eh! :D
 
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but my pictures won’t upload

Spent the last couple of days getting the exhaust system sorted
The y pipe for the headers was fouling on my gearbox mount so I modified the section to clear it
Also modified the hks system that was on the car originally to suit
Exhaust work is so frustrating and even worse trying to make existing things work I won’t be doing it again in a rush

Prop is finished and centre bearing brackets welded into the fd tunnel

Touch wood the car can come down off the axle stands tomorrow
Just waiting on coolant fittings I can take it for a drive
 
So I had a couple of bits to do today before I could lower her down
Mainly sorting an oil leak from a flange just above the oil filter
Got it down and realised my tie rods are way too short now with the bump steer correctors
So they’re next for the chop.
I almost forget how small the cars are when they’re not a foot in the air
I tried to drive the car for the first time to check the clutch and prop are working but I couldn’t select any gears but an adjustment clutch pedal end sorted it out and I managed to move the car under its own power for the first time :D

Still loads more to do
Retro rides is seeming like a pipe dream

A8B203FB-B3EC-48D9-835A-0C031DC84D94.jpeg


78606615-C620-4D88-8130-B1FDEFC598D1.jpeg


1101063A-87BA-4E0E-8E94-9EA83F3D3325.jpeg
 
Awsome man! If K20 life dosnt work for me im going to try V8 / V6 or somthigng. I like the idea of having more pistons to share the load of power. Ill probibly use a Jag / Landrover V8 though... just because i cant aford an LS :D
 
Back
Top