Recommendations for a good rust converter?

[Gunnytron]

In the past I have used dinitrol rc900. its good stuff but it is now around £35 a can.

I tried fertan but that is crap. more of a rust remover.

Any suggestions?

 

[chiron]

Oxalic acid is a good rust remover. Buy it in powder form and disolve it in water. Chuck rusty bits in it and leave them for a week.

Dinitrol is as good as they get. Kurust is a cheaper version.

 

[Gunnytron]

Thanks, but I have rust remover, I am after rust converter. Something you spray on then can paint over.

 

[Ceylon]

Fe123

 

[AlexG]

This stuff works

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80

AL.

 

[JoeLanger]

Fe123 from rust.co.uk its the chemical you need, phosphorus something reacts with the iron oxide

 

[Gunnytron]

Thanks. I will give the fe123 a go.

 

[Nas80]

the only one I've ever had any success with is this stuff called rust bullet. if you buy I would get lots of smaller cans rather then a big can. as once you open it it starts to do it's reaction so you can't keep it on a shelf it'll go rock solid.

if you need to cover large areas use a roller or spray it with Mek / acetone as a thinner.

if you get it on your skin it will be there for at least a month and you can't get it off no matter how much you scrub so wear gloves and eye protection. it's evil shit.

isn't cheap either but it's the best you can get imo

 

[Gunnytron]

the only one I've ever had any success with is this stuff called rust bullet. if you buy I would get lots of smaller cans rather then a big can. as once you open it it starts to do it's reaction so you can't keep it on a shelf it'll go rock solid.

if you need to cover large areas use a roller or spray it with Mek / acetone as a thinner.

if you get it on your skin it will be there for at least a month and you can't get it off no matter how much you scrub so wear gloves and eye protection. it's evil shit.

isn't cheap either but it's the best you can get imo

Have you tried fe123 and/or rc900?

That vid is 10 years old now .

 

[Nas80]

no I haven't had to restore anything in a while, I hadn't even heard of that fe123 or rc900

it maybe ten years old. but rusty metal is still rusty metal. I have a car with that rustbullet underneath and there's still no sign of rust been ten years or so

 

[Gunnytron]

no I haven't had to restore anything in a while, I hadn't even heard of that fe123 or rc900

it maybe ten years old. but rusty metal is still rusty metal. I have a car with that rustbullet underneath and there's still no sign of rust been ten years or so

Well that's some decent proof it works then. Thanks.

 

[Nas80]

. I painted a pretty rusty disc brake backing plate that was kinda flexible. after painting with that rust bullet that thing was rock solid. I think it works by drying out the metal and then using aluminium and some kind of resin that you can't hammer off afterwards.

had a look at the stuff you mentioned it looks like they work like that hammerite rust converter milky stuff, I've used that too it's not bad stuff actually.

everyone likes what they use, so pays ya money takes us choice etc.

what exactly are you trying to fix anyway?

 

[Ceylon]

fe123 is decent. Restored many classic cars with it and a super rusty UK FD, so tested thoroughly. It doesn't require a primer between it and a top coat which is handy. Although usually I go for epoxy if it's the underside of a car.

All acid based rust converters are pretty similar, They contain an organic polymer and tannic acid to simply react with iron oxide (rust) and chemically convert it to iron tannate, creating a barrier to seal in the rust and prevent further oxidation. If done right it's a permanent fix with a top coat or ideally epoxy.

If the surface is really rusty and pitted scrape over it with a screwdriver to remove anything loose before applying the converter or it wont be a sealed layer and will continue to rust.

Post up a pic of the affected area if you can.

 

[Gunnytron]

I just noticed a few small areas when I was under the car. It's only surface rust and will only be in small areas.

Although the rustbullet looks good, I think in this situation the fe123 will be more suitable mainly because it won't go off so quickly and only requires 1 coat.

I have used epoxy mastic before but I found it to be quite brittle. I used it on a few mounts under the car and it has flaked off due to the mounts flexing when tightening bolts. It wasn't easy to apply either.

 

[JoeLanger]

I think you need more thinners with epoxy mastic? Not sure what Tom's experience is?

 

[JDK]

I just used white vinegar, 35p from Aldi or wherever - not sure what the chemical reaction is between the acetic acid and the iron oxide, but it turns from brown to black. If you need to it stick somewhere make a paste with flour, just don't let it dry
Important note though, don't use it on any zinc passivated parts, as it'll strip that off as well...