Rear pads......crums!
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Has it been parked up with the handbrake on for a while in the bad weather/damp? The pad will bond to the disc and that is perhaps what has caused the surface to pick up on the pads. None of our cars are parked with the handbrake on (especially this time of year and current usage) for this reason. Unless anything is binding when brakes are released and everything is working as it should, I'd be inclined to clean it all up and not worry about it. You won't notice any degradation in performance with the pads. I wouldn't expect paint to last long on a disc regardless of use and rusty discs can take a while to clean up on the friction surface especially on the rears with only light use.
Use emory cloth or similar on a flat surface and run the pad back and forth. Use a wire brush or wheel on a drill on the discs. I often use a Scotch-brite type product on my discs if they they have any surface corrosion on the friction face.
Use emory cloth or similar on a flat surface and run the pad back and forth. Use a wire brush or wheel on a drill on the discs. I often use a Scotch-brite type product on my discs if they they have any surface corrosion on the friction face.
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So the car never gets parked and left with the hand brake on, unless I'm out and about
I think there's been a certain amount of binding going on. There's a few tell tail signs (Like the bells paint (the fronts are perfect).
Since getting the carriers off I've clearance the pads backing plates to the springs/sliders a little to allow for a bit more fluid movement.
I've also tied up the calipers in the wheels so the the piston faces up and flat. Lifted the piston boots and marinating in silicone spray lube. Will wind them in and out a few times when my piston tool comes back from my mates.
You think the pads will be ok to use then?
I think there's been a certain amount of binding going on. There's a few tell tail signs (Like the bells paint (the fronts are perfect).
Since getting the carriers off I've clearance the pads backing plates to the springs/sliders a little to allow for a bit more fluid movement.
I've also tied up the calipers in the wheels so the the piston faces up and flat. Lifted the piston boots and marinating in silicone spray lube. Will wind them in and out a few times when my piston tool comes back from my mates.
You think the pads will be ok to use then?
You can still see the impression of the pads on the disc though where it's been parked. Even in a garage with the handbrake off my pads will eventually stick to the discs. Last time I moved it there was a crack as they released.
I can't say for sure, but the paint is more likely to have come off due to the rust emanating from the unpainted edge. It it was heat, the colour would likely be brown and the friction surface would be blue. My sign of overheat is the dust boots failing, but that generally requires the pad to be much more worn than yours. I personally would not be keen on having flakey paint on the clamped surface (wheel to disc). It's not really the done thing. If it flakes off you could lose clamping load. It look stable enough at the moment in the contact areas, but I'd keep an eye on it.
Be careful what product you bring into contact with brake seals. You can make them swell/degrade.
I really do think you had a bit of water trapped in the groove of your pad and that is what exasperated the pad to disc bonding. Your pads look like new compared to what I bring back from a hard track day ;-)
I can't say for sure, but the paint is more likely to have come off due to the rust emanating from the unpainted edge. It it was heat, the colour would likely be brown and the friction surface would be blue. My sign of overheat is the dust boots failing, but that generally requires the pad to be much more worn than yours. I personally would not be keen on having flakey paint on the clamped surface (wheel to disc). It's not really the done thing. If it flakes off you could lose clamping load. It look stable enough at the moment in the contact areas, but I'd keep an eye on it.
Be careful what product you bring into contact with brake seals. You can make them swell/degrade.
I really do think you had a bit of water trapped in the groove of your pad and that is what exasperated the pad to disc bonding. Your pads look like new compared to what I bring back from a hard track day ;-)
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Thanks for the responses mate! Kinda putting my mind at rest a bit.
Funny, a long time ago, just after we installed all the new kit, we noticed an audible crack when pulling off once.
The car is always garaged and not taken out in rain. Well once or twice recently.
I had to move the car from the lockup to the house to start work. It saw maybe 15miles from there to here. I would have thought that would be enough to clean the discs? The nearside was cleaner on both faces. hmmm
Going to do as you say. Clean it up and go
Funny, a long time ago, just after we installed all the new kit, we noticed an audible crack when pulling off once.
The car is always garaged and not taken out in rain. Well once or twice recently.
I had to move the car from the lockup to the house to start work. It saw maybe 15miles from there to here. I would have thought that would be enough to clean the discs? The nearside was cleaner on both faces. hmmm
Going to do as you say. Clean it up and go
These were the pads I removed after this last session of DN19. Car still stopped fine, but the pedal became inconsistent (the reason I backed off a little and let the TT go by) as more chunks of friction material were being ejected. Pads are an expensive consumable for me, so I do run them to destruction occasionally. I did a similar thing at Brands GP last year. It's annoying though, because it results in crispy dust seals and I have to rebuild the calipers.
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Stoptech ST40 with 332x32mm discs (RS 314mm rears). They were the largest option available that would fit 17" wheels. If I was doing it again I would go with 18" just to get some decent brakes in there. The pads struggle to complete 3 dry track days. Carbotech XP10 or RP2s. I was really struggling to get the rears to last as long as the fronts to begin with, but I've worked with Ian at Carbotech to increase the rear pad friction material volume which has helped a lot. I've also fitted rudimentary ducts to the trailing arm to help blow some air through the wheels.
