- Joined
- Feb 20, 2019
- Messages
- 197
There's a lot more to this than I am writing hear, but this is the jist of my current issue.
Ok so I had my car mapped by a well known company, they had my car 16 months with a list of jobs to do/check and a map. It was suppose to be kept inside but I found out when collecting it that the car has in fact been sat outside for around a year in all weather with no cover or front bumper attached. The bill came back relatively low I guess "had the work been done properly", except my car is now fairly damaged due to rust as it was not water tight hence me agreeing to have it inside if they were keeping it ages. If you have seen my build thread you would I am sure appreciate my frustration. I'll possibly go into greater details another time but none of that is helping me sort the immediate issue right now in time for a euro trip next month.
Now before I go any further, I am not blaming any one for any issue's that were already there, it arrived needing what I thought were small jobs especially at a specialist with a ramp, most of the work that I could not do my self (lack of knowledge and fear of breaking it) had been done by a mechanic and I had sent the car to the specialist on the basis that we had done what we could but things needed checking.
The jobs main list was to fix an oil leak, a harsh rattle on the turbo side and check all vacs hoses/solonoids and a coolant leak, then map. The car would start but then cut out (turns out that was just while the car is cold as it still does it if you touch the revs and let off while cold, but is totally fine once warm)
So the car is running knightsports twin turbos, a 450lph pump, 1680 injectors, I believe 800 primaries but cannot confirm as I do not remember, the map says 550 looking at the datalogit. 3 inch straight through hks system, upgraded intakes and rad intercooler etc, all supporting mods and an fpr. NGK r BUR9eqp plugs all around. The car was mapped and sent back to me finally after 16 months, the oil leak not touched, the coolant leak still there, the rattle was way worst than when it was sent and setting off the car just learched/jolted all over at which point I was rather frustrated and did not wish to drive it incase of damage. (the rattle noise was huge)
So after contacting them they admitted it had been mapped with a leak and some turbo bolts/snapped or missing.
So I got to work fixing it all, being told all the way that once it was all back together properly it would run perfect and make the power they had on the dyno and that they had mapped it with the issue's in mind so that once they were fixed it would work correctly. (As far as I am aware mapping a car with any kind of leak is a huge nono)
So I pulled the turbo's apart to start as that was the rattle location, only to find the rear inlet pipe (the elbow made of metal which is held on with 2 x 10mm bolts) was completely loose, I could rattle it around with my hand (easy 3 min fix on a ramp from underneath,) Great I thought, simple fix. Nope, not fixed. So I went further and got the turbo's out altogether, Here is what I found...
An inch gap in the turbo gasket, 2 bolts completely missing and 1 bolt from the turbo to the manifold snapped (which could easily be seen from underneath) The gasket had obviously been blowing and then totally blown out on the dyno as the rattle/leak was much worst when it came back than when it went. I then removed the manifold to find a rounded stud in the rotar. Again, I am not blaming the specialist for this they did not do this work which caused these issue's, but mapping the car like this and telling me it drives amazing and it's reliable and ready to go across Europe kinda takes the piss. IMO the car only needed to go on a ramp and get looked at properly for an hour to see the potential issue's at which point they could have rang me and said, there's a bit more work involved than we thought what do you want to do, but I wasn't given this option at all. The same with it being moved outside, I was not told or asked do I want to bring a cover or do I want to take the car back, it was moved outside and left to rot for a year, £4000 brand new alloys look ******* battered.
So the car was is mapped at 1.1 bar which is 15.6 psi, which is the max I'd want to go as I don't know how far I want to push the upgraded twins as I will never find another set of knightsports twins and I am unsure as to how capable they are, also the power is plenty at that range. Now with all the issue's fixed (the turbo/exhaust leak, the inlet leak, the vac leak, the car is now hitting 18to19psi, and the misfire is horrendous, I would say the car is getting too much fuel rather than not enough fuel as it spits flames and when removing the plugs they were soaked. I do not thing the BUR9EQP's can handle all this fuel and have ordered 2 x B11EGP's for the trailing as they have a better spark but are obviously going to choke if driven daily (it's a track car not a daily so gets thrashed when out). I do not have an afr to confirm this at the moment but I can borrow one, how ever that doesn't solve my map issue. I am assuming the actuator needs adjustment to get the boost back down to 1.1 bar and then the fueling adjusting for the map.
Could I please have some professional advice regarding this as I am now having to take this to trading standards and small claims, I will not mention which garage for obvious reasons unless they wish too them selves. But in their own words, there are not 4 other rotary specialists in the UK who can map a car...
I have missed a track day which was booked for today for testing prior to the ring trip and do not feel like the car is safe to drive as it is, I can trailer it to a mapper if some one can suggest a good one, I am based in Sheffield.
Ok so I had my car mapped by a well known company, they had my car 16 months with a list of jobs to do/check and a map. It was suppose to be kept inside but I found out when collecting it that the car has in fact been sat outside for around a year in all weather with no cover or front bumper attached. The bill came back relatively low I guess "had the work been done properly", except my car is now fairly damaged due to rust as it was not water tight hence me agreeing to have it inside if they were keeping it ages. If you have seen my build thread you would I am sure appreciate my frustration. I'll possibly go into greater details another time but none of that is helping me sort the immediate issue right now in time for a euro trip next month.
Now before I go any further, I am not blaming any one for any issue's that were already there, it arrived needing what I thought were small jobs especially at a specialist with a ramp, most of the work that I could not do my self (lack of knowledge and fear of breaking it) had been done by a mechanic and I had sent the car to the specialist on the basis that we had done what we could but things needed checking.
The jobs main list was to fix an oil leak, a harsh rattle on the turbo side and check all vacs hoses/solonoids and a coolant leak, then map. The car would start but then cut out (turns out that was just while the car is cold as it still does it if you touch the revs and let off while cold, but is totally fine once warm)
So the car is running knightsports twin turbos, a 450lph pump, 1680 injectors, I believe 800 primaries but cannot confirm as I do not remember, the map says 550 looking at the datalogit. 3 inch straight through hks system, upgraded intakes and rad intercooler etc, all supporting mods and an fpr. NGK r BUR9eqp plugs all around. The car was mapped and sent back to me finally after 16 months, the oil leak not touched, the coolant leak still there, the rattle was way worst than when it was sent and setting off the car just learched/jolted all over at which point I was rather frustrated and did not wish to drive it incase of damage. (the rattle noise was huge)
So after contacting them they admitted it had been mapped with a leak and some turbo bolts/snapped or missing.
So I got to work fixing it all, being told all the way that once it was all back together properly it would run perfect and make the power they had on the dyno and that they had mapped it with the issue's in mind so that once they were fixed it would work correctly. (As far as I am aware mapping a car with any kind of leak is a huge nono)
So I pulled the turbo's apart to start as that was the rattle location, only to find the rear inlet pipe (the elbow made of metal which is held on with 2 x 10mm bolts) was completely loose, I could rattle it around with my hand (easy 3 min fix on a ramp from underneath,) Great I thought, simple fix. Nope, not fixed. So I went further and got the turbo's out altogether, Here is what I found...
An inch gap in the turbo gasket, 2 bolts completely missing and 1 bolt from the turbo to the manifold snapped (which could easily be seen from underneath) The gasket had obviously been blowing and then totally blown out on the dyno as the rattle/leak was much worst when it came back than when it went. I then removed the manifold to find a rounded stud in the rotar. Again, I am not blaming the specialist for this they did not do this work which caused these issue's, but mapping the car like this and telling me it drives amazing and it's reliable and ready to go across Europe kinda takes the piss. IMO the car only needed to go on a ramp and get looked at properly for an hour to see the potential issue's at which point they could have rang me and said, there's a bit more work involved than we thought what do you want to do, but I wasn't given this option at all. The same with it being moved outside, I was not told or asked do I want to bring a cover or do I want to take the car back, it was moved outside and left to rot for a year, £4000 brand new alloys look ******* battered.
So the car was is mapped at 1.1 bar which is 15.6 psi, which is the max I'd want to go as I don't know how far I want to push the upgraded twins as I will never find another set of knightsports twins and I am unsure as to how capable they are, also the power is plenty at that range. Now with all the issue's fixed (the turbo/exhaust leak, the inlet leak, the vac leak, the car is now hitting 18to19psi, and the misfire is horrendous, I would say the car is getting too much fuel rather than not enough fuel as it spits flames and when removing the plugs they were soaked. I do not thing the BUR9EQP's can handle all this fuel and have ordered 2 x B11EGP's for the trailing as they have a better spark but are obviously going to choke if driven daily (it's a track car not a daily so gets thrashed when out). I do not have an afr to confirm this at the moment but I can borrow one, how ever that doesn't solve my map issue. I am assuming the actuator needs adjustment to get the boost back down to 1.1 bar and then the fueling adjusting for the map.
Could I please have some professional advice regarding this as I am now having to take this to trading standards and small claims, I will not mention which garage for obvious reasons unless they wish too them selves. But in their own words, there are not 4 other rotary specialists in the UK who can map a car...
I have missed a track day which was booked for today for testing prior to the ring trip and do not feel like the car is safe to drive as it is, I can trailer it to a mapper if some one can suggest a good one, I am based in Sheffield.
