Electric water pump

[snoopios]

Does anyone have one installed on their FD or, does anyone see a benefit in doing this?

Some of you might have seen my car leaking a lot of water when parked up at Blyton on the weekend and one thing I think is happening is the latent heat in the engine is heating the water up (because there is no fluid flow or fans on to cool it down) causing it to expand more and overflow the expansion tank - this could be a solution...

 

[MILLION]

I've been interested in this for a while.

Likes the looks of these:

SBG Competition Electric Water Pump Kit (FD3S RX-7)

Turbocharge your cooling system with the SakeBomb Garage Competition Electric Water Pump Kit

www.sakebombgarage.com

 

[shaunwil]

I've had an 80lt /min one on the FD for over 10yrs ! Its now controlled by my ecu through a solid state relay so I can run pwm on it.

I wasn't a fan of the original controller, I ended up keeping the thermostat in the assembly. I had a flat home made plate covering the water pump body.

The cost in the kit is the machined cover, it should give good flow, otherwise it is quite a bit of cash !

 

[shaunwil]

What your explaining is how the expansion tank works, the engine could be burping air out of the system when its running out of the expansion tank on cool down.

Just keep topping it up when cold and it should settle down.

 

[snoopios]

I've been interested in this for a while.

Likes the looks of these:

SBG Competition Electric Water Pump Kit (FD3S RX-7)

Turbocharge your cooling system with the SakeBomb Garage Competition Electric Water Pump Kit

www.sakebombgarage.com

I had a quick look at this from Demon Tweaks (https://www.demon-tweeks.com/davies...z6HtN2sQbvWyWEQgfKxoCooMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) then found this video of someone installing it (

). I think the kits are exactly the same with the difference being that the SakeBomb kit also has the delete plate.

Kind of tempted to give it a go as it doesn't look too difficult.

 

[snoopios]

I've had an 80lt /min one on the FD for over 10yrs ! Its now controlled by my ecu through a solid state relay so I can run pwm on it.

I wasn't a fan of the original controller, I ended up keeping the thermostat in the assembly. I had a flat home made plate covering the water pump body.

The cost in the kit is the machined cover, it should give good flow, otherwise it is quite a bit of cash !

Which ECU have you got? I know what you mean about the controller, it would be nice to not have another controller in the car.

With regard to the kit, are you referring to the SakeBomb one? I was thinking that getting a lasercut plate wouldn't be too expensive as I am assuming it could be a completely flat plate.

 

[shaunwil]

I'm running a linkG4, its run through a solid state relay too.

The sakebomb kit cover does look nice, I did run for quite a few years with a flat plate (home made). I did prefer it with the thermostat in place though and the pump running at full tilt when I had my powerfc.

 

[shaunwil]

This is how it was set up with the plate :

 

[shaunwil]

I did a tidy up and it now looks like this (when I did it, bit dusty now). This was a progress picture, the inner arches are now in the car !

 

[snoopios]

What your explaining is how the expansion tank works, the engine could be burping air out of the system when its running out of the expansion tank on cool down.

Just keep topping it up when cold and it should settle down.

What I found today is that the hose that connects from my AST to the expansion tank was a bit slack so when the engine cooled down, it wasn't creating any suction to suck the water out of the expansion tank back into the main cooling system.

What was happening before is the expansion tank was getting filled, then the coolant from the main cooling system was expanding when heating up (as it does and should) and then filling into the expansion tank. Because the expansion tank was already full, it would pour out of the expansion tanks breather hole and pour out all over the floor. Of course, when the system cooled down and because I had an air leak in the suction pipe, it was just drawing air back into the system and no coolant so it would always be low after being warm. I think I've sorted it this evening by using a hose clamp on the expansion tank side of the hose (stuck one on the AST for good measure) to help create a full seal.

 

[snoopios]

I did a tidy up and it now looks like this (when I did it, bit dusty now). This was a progress picture, the inner arches are now in the car !

View attachment 15353

Proper engine bay goals right there.

Is that the "Electric Water Pump Block Adaptor" from DM Motorsport?

Out of curiosity, what did you do to remove the filler neck and from that, where does the thermostat now go (does it even need one with an electric water pump)?

 

[shaunwil]

Good to hear you found an air leak. I've never seen that (everyday a school day), when it had the stock system it always overflowed when there was air in the system then settled down.

The engine bay is well over 12 months worth of work ! The adapter block is something similar to the DM one, there has been quite a few options over the years.

The adapter is basically where the filler neck fits to the main block ! There isn't a thermostat in the loop now, thats where the pwm comes in. It takes longer to warm up, but its not too bad once you play with the map.

I only ran the thermostat when the housing was on, I could run it at full chat then all the time. It was great in traffic.

 

[JoeLanger]

I've read shaun that people have found it better to run with a stat, as when cold, even with the pump off, the natural circulation of the engine pulls the cold coolant in from the rad without a valve stoping the flow.

 

[shaunwil]

I'd worry about having no flow at all. The engine warms up quicker with a reasonable flow through the engine.

 

[JoeLanger]

Yeah but on a stock car the stat stays fully shut until like 5/60 degrees don't it ?

 

[shaunwil]

Doesn't the pump still move fluid through the engine but bypass the radiator until up to temp ?

 

[karl_tate]

I've got the the dm adapter. Not ideal as the outlets are too close together to get clamps on. But still works. Just.