Briggsy's TCP Magic Track Project

[Briggsy]

These are the new brakes that are now being shipped to me.

I am not taking the front rotor rings from these images as they did have some small cracks and weigh a lot, so to save shipping costs I left them and will buy new at some point.

Got these for a cracking price and should give me some great stopping power, when I eventually need it

 

[Briggsy]

Finally got back to my unit and tidied it up a little so I can drop more parts off.

As some may have seen in the fender liner thread, I placed my carbon covers in the spaces to get an idea of the fitment and look and when they are properly fitted they should look great in contrast to the yelllow!

I also got my AP brakes after they arrived from the states, I do not have the front rotor discs as I ditched them to save weight as they were slightly cracked, but I did get the rears and have a few photos to compare them to the stock rotors I had previously.

And now because I have new rear brackets etc I will have a pair of brand new Mazda brackets for sale, that allow for the standard caliper to accommodate the larger rear rotor some models came with.

 

[rx_dreamer]

Might be wise to check the bells for warpage at a precision engineers, I always thought bells were a disposable item

 

[Briggsy]

I will more than likely get new ones when I get the replacement rotor rings if I'm honest mate, as I can't see them being that expensive and gives me piece of mind it is all in good condition.

 

[Satoshi-FD3]

Might be wise to check the bells for warpage at a precision engineers, I always thought bells were a disposable item

if bells were a disposable item, the brakes would be one piece and spares would not be available?!?!? Surely???

 

[rx_dreamer]

Lighter

 

[Briggsy]

Finally pulled my finger out and got the subframes, suspension arms and both anti roll bars in for blasting and powder coating, as well as all bolts which are getting cleaned up and zinc plated so they don't let down the freshly powdered parts, which I should get back next week at some point.

Then when I get them back, I can begin fitting all the new bushes and pillow balls before I get the whole lot back on the car. Then I can begin the process of figuring out if the wheels I have found and want will work with the kit as they are quite wide, but from some working out so far, I think they might work, but need the car back together to confirm.

Still have a few bits to order to like wheel hubs and bearings etc but definitely some positive news for the build before it goes in to paint and gets a load of other work done in April, when it should start to take shape as to how I actually want it.

 

[Briggsy]

So finally got the subframes and suspension arms powder coated. I went for satin black on the subframes and an anthracite on the suspension arms. Got the anti roll bars done in satin black too.
I did think they would be removing the final two bushes for me before they blasted them, but that will be a job I do in the next few days hopefully.

Then this morning/early afternoon I decided to start to put some of the SuperPro bushes in and get new boots on the ball joints. Much easier to install bushes than remove them! Managed to get most of them done in a couple of hours, so not much left before I can fit this all back to the car.

I am hoping I don't have too much trouble getting the final bushes out, then I can get the pillowballs and last few SuperPro bushes installed (need to order a couple for the anti roll bars too as I don't have those or even the standard ones now) and the car will finally be off the stands and on wheels again.

 

[Briggsy]

Had another spare hour so decided to fit the last of the SuperPro bushes that I am going to use (Diff bushes may get fitted but I am going to do an 8.8 swap so won't be getting used, and my rear toe links are trash so I am just going to replace them with different ones). Also fitted the first two pillowballs, I haven't yet fitted the new circlips as I left my pliers at the unit, so will do these later today more than likely.

Just waiting on the new rear hubs and bearings to arrive, then can get those and the old fronts (will be getting replaced soon as well) and then I can get some measurements to try and work out possibilities for some new wheels.

Next time I can get some decent time to spend at the unit (Likely to be next weekend) I think I am going to have a play with the dash and get that cut to fit and take a look at what I can do to get the carbon door cards to work with the roll cage. Hopefully at the same time my parts will have arrived and I can refit the subframes etc too.

 

[Briggsy]

And finally sorted all the circlips and got the other four pillow balls fitted.

Just need to get the awkward final bushings out and replace them with brand new OEM ones. Definitely starting the year off how I hope it continues!!

 

[JoeLanger]

Looking great pal

 

[Briggsy]

Finally got what I could fitted back to the car, going to need a couple new nuts etc as some appear to have gone missing, but looking loads better already!

Unfortunately the old front hubs and old suspension will go back on for now until I can sort new ones (likely to be Ohlins and genuine OEM front hubs). I do need to play with the eccentric bolts too to get them all centered the same, but can do that pretty easily (I do need to get 1 more of the washers beforehand as I'm missing one).

I did quickly chuck a wheel fitment tool I have to get an idea of fitment of a set of some pretty cool wheels which would be different and I'd say a first on an FD. I didn't have a measure or anything with me and was in a rush so unsure exactly how far out they sit.

From the image below I'm not sure if a little negative camber would work? I do understand without being the correct ride height etc this may not be 100% accurate. I do still need to check the fronts as they are also quite wide with a lower offset and will take a straight edge and tape to try and figure exactly how much "poke" it will have with what I believe is 0⁰ camber.

Any tips on trying to figure out wheel fitment welcome.

 

[mattdavies]

For wheel fitment,

• Take a wheel with a known width and offset and put it on
• Tape a plumb line taped to the wheel arch
• Measure from the wheel edge to the plumb line, this will tell your approx (1/2mm) how much wheel poke you can gain.
• Measure from the back of the wheel to any suspension components, this will give you the back spacing ( I would give this a good margin for tyres etc. )
• Use all this data you have collected and put it in to willtheyfit.com

The hardest this you will have is that the tyre size & brand all vary so I would play it a little safe as you can always use spacers ( 2-10mm ) to perfect the fitment

The other option is to borrow a wheel and tyre combo thats is near what you are looking at and see what that looks like. You may have to do a combo of both borrowing a wheel and tye combo and measuring.

 

[Sturneyrx7]

@Slevenheaven might be able to offer some guidence....

 

[Briggsy]

For wheel fitment,

• Take a wheel with a known width and offset and put it on
• Tape a plumb line taped to the wheel arch
• Measure from the wheel edge to the plumb line, this will tell your approx (1/2mm) how much wheel poke you can gain.
• Measure from the back of the wheel to any suspension components, this will give you the back spacing ( I would give this a good margin for tyres etc. )
• Use all this data you have collected and put it in to willtheyfit.com

The hardest this you will have is that the tyre size & brand all vary so I would play it a little safe as you can always use spacers ( 2-10mm ) to perfect the fitment

The other option is to borrow a wheel and tyre combo thats is near what you are looking at and see what that looks like. You may have to do a combo of both borrowing a wheel and tye combo and measuring.

Thanks for this!! Very detailed and helpful.

Although from the previous measurements and looking realistically at it I think the ones I'd seen are too big unfortunately.

Would rather get wheels that fit the car rather than making my car fit the wheels think I just got excited as these would have been a big different from the norm.

 

[Joeybratten]

You always make the car fit the wheels.... haha

 

[Briggsy]

You always make the car fit the wheels.... haha

This project is taking long enough and costing me enough without trying to modify the arches etc to work too haha

 

[Slevenheaven]

@Slevenheaven might be able to offer some guidence....

Thanks Matt, my wheels are:

18x10 +35 - fronts
18x12 +20 -rears

This is what sizes TCP recommend, However I think you could get away with a little bigger on the back, I will probably put a small spacer on mine and also worth noting that my car is not loaded yet so it hasn't got the engine or anything of considerable weight in it which will have some effect. There is also a little bit of material on the arched return that you could cut back a little to give you a bit more space. Although do it before its all painted, don't do a me .

 

[Briggsy]

Thanks Matt, my wheels are:

18x10 +35 - fronts
18x12 +20 -rears

This is what sizes TCP recommend, However I think you could get away with a little bigger on the back, I will probably put a small spacer on mine and also worth noting that my car is not loaded yet so it hasn't got the engine or anything of considerable weight in it which will have some effect. There is also a little bit of material on the arched return that you could cut back a little to give you a bit more space. Although do it before its all painted, don't do a me .

Is your kit also +65mm front and rear?

The ones I was contemplating where 100% too big and I think I knew that beforehand, just wanted someone to tell me they would fit as it would have been different and a bit unique

 

[Jit]

My FEED GT3 Kit is +65mm on the rear. Ive gone for almost the same wheel as matey (18x12J ET19 Volk Racing ZE40). By my calcs it should sit just right on the +65mm rear end. I may need a 5mm spacer. That said, I will be running a 325 or 315 wide rear tyre.