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Jester's Sunburst Yellow Type R Bathurst R - '01

Jester*

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2021
Messages
127
Evening everyone,

I wanted to pop a project thread up about my FD to try and keep a little log of the cars history and my ownership journey.

History

Imported in Dec 2020 and then stored for about a year before being put up for sale having done barely any mileage.

No actual service history came with the car. However original import document with grade, verified mileage and confirmed no accident history. Along with strong compression results done by Stu at Rotortorque and overall stunning condition of the car meant that I was less worried about that and gives me somewhere to start as I do plan on keeping her for a good while.

Advert

Being sold by HJA

Mazda RX7 Type R Bathurst R, ONLY 271 Produced in Sunburst yellow!​

• 10/2001 Mazda RX7 Type R Bathurst R (Series 8 Version VI)
• Japanese Auction Grade 4-B
• No Accident History
• 95,000 km Genuine (Approx 59k miles)
• Limited to 500 units sold in Japan and only 271 in Sunburst yellow
• Worldwide shipping available and can be delivered to your door almost anywhere in Europe.
• Long/short term storage options available for U.S customers
• Stock code: HJA457
• 50+ HD

HJA bring to you this super rare Mazda RX-7 limited edition version of the RX-7 rotary engine sports car. Equipped with features designed to enhance driving pleasure and its sporty appeal, plus the fact it was limited to 500 units the Type R Bathurst R is really one for the avid car collectors.

The RX-7 has a particularly distinctive design, brimming with originality. Its lightweight, compact, high-output rotary engine allows it to raise responsive handling and performance to an exceptionally high level. The RX-7 is a sports car that exemplifies the Mazda spirit.

The new limited edition model is based on the Type R, with the lightest power-weight ratio among RX-7 series, and features custom height-adjustable dampers designed specially for the limited edition model for enhanced driving excitement. In addition, employing the carbon tone cockpit reminiscent of a racing car adds up to a thoroughly sporty feel. Three body colors are available, including exclusive color for this limited edition vehicle: Sunburst Yellow.

The name Bathurst was chosen to commemorate the Bathurst 12-hour car race in Australia, where the RX-7 has been victorious for three consecutive years (1992 through 1994). Since that time all limited edition versions of the RX-7 have carried the Bathurst name.

Sales of the RX-7 Type R Bathurst R are limited to 500 units for all of Japan although later data shows the number could be a total of 650.

Features of the Type R Bathurst R
The Type R Bathurst R takes as its basis the Type R, the lightest power-weight ratio among RX-7 series, and adds custom height-adjustable dampers designed specially for this limited edition model. This provides a unique driving experience to match the individuality of the customer. Carbon tone interior panels accentuate the sporty feel.

- Custom "Bathurst R" decals
- Height-adjustable dampers (custom designed for the limited edition model)
* Adjustment is performed by the dealer with request of customers
- Carbon tone panels (center panel, center console, power window switch panel and small storage compartment cover on driver's side) (manufactured by Mazda Speed)
- Carbon shift knob and parking brake lever (manufactured by Mazda Speed)
Available body colors: Sunburst Yellow (exclusive to the limited edition model), Pure White, Innocent Blue Mica

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Compression

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Points to note before collection

1. Clifford 650 Mk3 & Hornet tracker fitted.
2. Rotortorque replaced a boost solonoid.
3. Went to Chris at CSK Automotive for full underbody clear Dinitrol treatment

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Collection

I collected her on Nov 29th 2021.

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Arrived at her new home

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Current stablemates

Mk1 Mazda 3 MPS Aero
Mazda RX8 R3
Toyota GR Yaris

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First Driving Impressions

Now with the unknown history of the car I wasn't expecting everything to be perfect, but on the whole she was great on the cruise home. The engine was beautifully smooth and the handover between turbos was seemless. She felt light and direct, just like my old ND MX5, brakes were great and felt up to the job. Seats are so comfortable, it feels like we have lost something in more modern cars! Holy moly the visability is brilliant, probably one of the best cars I've driven in this regard. Indicator on the wrong side was something I quickly got used too.

I have however forgotten how far cars have moved on in terms of refinement. Squeaks and creaks aplenty from the plastics! Also the damping felt absolutely terrible, the car still has its adjustable height dampers as she came from the factory, now obviously I have no idea if these have ever been rebuilt or replaced in the 20 years she has been on the road. But on smooth roads not a problem, but any bump (of which there are plenty on our concrete motorways) or pothole she did feel crashy. While body roll was also noticeable.

The caveats being, I am driving a 21 year old car in 5 degree temperatures so more driving and learning will be required.

Also, she is far too quiet stock exhaust wise. With the OEM radio only able to pick up Radio 2 also being quite comical as well.

Initial Plans/Mods

This is always going to be a fine balance due to the relative value of the car. But I do want to improve her as a driving experience without obviously taking too extremes.

1. In the early Spring I plan to get her booked back in with Stu and get a complete change of all the fluids in the car. I am also open to any preventative maintenance that is worth carrying out.

2. Start doing something about the suspension. I am already eyeing up Ohlins DFV's. I have always wanted to get some and I do feel as if the RX7 would be the right car to have them. I am no track hero, so fast road, with maybe the odd track day as the end goal. But better road manners is top of the list. Maybe look into slightly stiffer ARBs to address the roll.

3. Exhaust, as I have no plans to go for crazy power. Just a cat back at this stage, which will be between the Racing Beat Twin and the TGS Supertwin as I do like the stock look. If the stock cat gets eaten then obviously this may have to be looked at. My R3 came with a ECP Cat which it ate through in about 3 months flat, so I am no stranger to a sports cat. But obviously this could mean remaps due to being turbocharged. A bridge to cross should it ever come to it.

4. Detailed and ceramic coated.

5. Drive it. I have no plans to make it a garage queen. But it may get stored away next winter, I kind of missed the boat this year! But hey, it is a car, they are meant to be outside.
 
Welcome to the club, that is a beautiful FD. In regards to preventative maintenance the underside of your fd is completely rust and rot free. If you plan on driving it in the rain or this winter. I would encourage you to get the underside fully sealed.
 
It does sound like perhaps your dampers aren't at their best, or perhaps the special Bathurst ones are heavier anyway. My car just has the normal 'hard' dampers, I wouldn't call it particularly crashy, although they were all replaced with new OEM about two years ago and so should be fairly fresh.

Certainly my trackday pics show comedy levels of body roll, however my feeling is that with its low centre of gravity and double wishbone suspension, the FD doesn't actually lose much tyre grip when it rolls; I'm not convinced I'd be any faster round a track with stiffer suspension. However if you prefer the feel of a flatter car, I hear do good things about the Ohlins. I wonder if anyone with Ohlins could take you for a quick passenger ride? Changing suspension is quite a cost and hassle, so ideal to try before you buy.
 
Welcome to the club, that is a beautiful FD. In regards to preventative maintenance the underside of your fd is completely rust and rot free. If you plan on driving it in the rain or this winter. I would encourage you to get the underside fully sealed.

Do not fear, she has already been to CSK Automotive and had underbody clear dinitrol treatment. She is ready for the more adverse weather conditions.

It does sound like perhaps your dampers aren't at their best, or perhaps the special Bathurst ones are heavier anyway. My car just has the normal 'hard' dampers, I wouldn't call it particularly crashy, although they were all replaced with new OEM about two years ago and so should be fairly fresh.

Certainly my trackday pics show comedy levels of body roll, however my feeling is that with its low centre of gravity and double wishbone suspension, the FD doesn't actually lose much tyre grip when it rolls; I'm not convinced I'd be any faster round a track with stiffer suspension. However if you prefer the feel of a flatter car, I hear do good things about the Ohlins. I wonder if anyone with Ohlins could take you for a quick passenger ride? Changing suspension is quite a cost and hassle, so ideal to try before you buy.

Don't get me wrong I like a bit of body roll, I enjoy being able to feel the car move. But too much makes a car feel unwieldy and makes me feel less in control. High speed damping should still give some compliance when you hit the old pothole or rib in the tarmac. When I wince when I hit one that usually means it isn't quite giving that compliance! The stock damping on my R3 is definitely superior, suspension has definitely improved over the years.

I'd be up for seeing what the Ohlins are like if anyone is around the Kent area and has them fitted! I will definitely have more seat time before making any firm purchase decisions as snap judgements can definitely lead to mistakes.
 
Like the intro (y) .

Yeah you rarely see any of the Showa shocks in good condition. Best to swap those out or rebuild them with new bump stops and a service.

Nice car. Let the modding begin
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If its anything like mine was, the shocks will be shot

I am glad the butt suspension sensor isn't losing its edge. Best line up that shopping list then 💰💰

Like the intro (y) .

Yeah you rarely see any of the Showa shocks in good condition. Best to swap those out or rebuild them with new bump stops and a service.

Nice car. Let the modding begin View attachment 30650.

It is like getting the green light to spend even more money.....what a shame! May as well go all out, FD is worth it.

I haven't seen much talk on it, but when I got my 8 I got coils, leads, plugs done. Is it the same for the FD? Are the coils a notorious point of failure? I am a definite believer in preventative maintenance, rather than reactive with a poorly car!
 
Good choice in cars, I too am a massive Mazda fan owning an FD, MPS 3 Gen 2, and 6 MPS. I only need an RX8 R3 to add to the collection :)
 
Good choice in cars, I too am a massive Mazda fan owning an FD, MPS 3 Gen 2, and 6 MPS. I only need an RX8 R3 to add to the collection :)
Good work there sir! The MPS was my fathers so has sentimental value for me so that has had far too much money flung at it :ROFLMAO:.

I'd definitely get an R3 if you can squeeze it in. I prefer it to the ND Mx5 I had, definitely more of an event.
 
I haven't seen much talk on it, but when I got my 8 I got coils, leads, plugs done. Is it the same for the FD? Are the coils a notorious point of failure? I am a definite believer in preventative maintenance, rather than reactive with a poorly car!
I don't believe coils are much of an issue on FDs. Leads can be an issue if they're still the originals, from heat and age. Plugs need changing relatively frequently, so I guess maybe take them out and check them, if you don't have paperwork for the last time they were replaced.
 
Welcome and your plan for the car looks good. I would highly recommend getting a new ecu like an apexi power fc even if you don’t change anything else. It’s plug and play and when mapped will make a massive difference to the driving experience.
 
I don't believe coils are much of an issue on FDs. Leads can be an issue if they're still the originals, from heat and age. Plugs need changing relatively frequently, so I guess maybe take them out and check them, if you don't have paperwork for the last time they were replaced.

As I am starting from a pretty much completely clean state I will always air on the side of caution and just replace leads and plugs. For the cost of them, it isn't worth ignoring them. If the plugs are good, can always keep them as a back up! Glad to hear coils are solid, they were a relatively costly thing to replace on the 8.

Welcome and your plan for the car looks good. I would highly recommend getting a new ecu like an apexi power fc even if you don’t change anything else. It’s plug and play and when mapped will make a massive difference to the driving experience.

I must admit I have absolutely no idea ow the apexi power even works. I'll need to do some reading up on it.
 
I must admit I have absolutely no idea ow the apexi power even works. I'll need to do some reading up on it.
It’s a plug and play ecu basically, fit it and you can drive it on the base map. Get someone like Marco or Jaydee to map it properly and enjoy. If you choose to sell the car, in plug it and put the stock ecu back.
 
It’s a plug and play ecu basically, fit it and you can drive it on the base map. Get someone like Marco or Jaydee to map it properly and enjoy. If you choose to sell the car, in plug it and put the stock ecu back.

Yea, looks like a proper little decent mod. I might have to add it to the list.

So far my shopping list is as follows. Writing it down so I can keep track.

Servicing

1. Oil/Filter (Probs stick to Millers Trident 10w40 as thats what I run in the 8)
2. Brake Fluid (ATE Type 200, my favoured fluid)
3. Spark Plugs
4. Gearbox fluid
5. Fuel FIlter
6. HT Leads (Magnecore or MSD)

Replacement Bits

1. Ohlins DFV's
2. Exhaust (Racingbeat twin or TGS Supertwin)

Cosmetic/Other

1. Eyeing up a retrimmed wheel, tempted to get an MX5 Nardi wheel and get that to fit.
2. Replacement gearstick & handbrake gaiters. ( Eyeing up these from JF Customs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/39296237...d=link&campid=5338477309&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 adds a little colour and texture if anyone has ordered from them before and has any opinions let me know)
3. Putting some sound deadening in the boot as it looks a little bare underneath the mat.
4. Get some Gummi Pfledge on all the rubbers and make sure they are nice and supple.
5. Start saving and keeping an eye open for SZ Recaros in black.
 
Been quite mild down here in Kent, along with being pretty dry so drove it to work. I am about 150 miles of driving now.

She looks amazing. It still surprises me how small they are.

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Stock 16's are growing on me so much.
 
She has moved just the once since the last update and this was only because I have had some driveway gates fitted so she could be parked behind them.

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Now she probably won't move till the Spring, and I am more and more thinking of getting a carcoon for next winter. But I am sure she can survive a few British winter months outside, while hooked up to a CTEK.

I have managed to find an FD Brodit proclip from @MKZ7212 that he was no longer using, big thanks to you! Mated it to a holder for my Pixel by having to drill a hole or 2 and secure with nuts and bolts. But voila one super solid phone holder solution.

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Out of shot is also a little bag to help stop condensation, but after a few weeks of weather I am happy to see there doesn't seem to be any dampness or leaks inside the 7.

I managed to secure a secondhand Racing Beat Twin exhaust from @initialDean. It is basically brand spanking at a very good price. In keeping with the OEM+ style I'd like to go for. Looking forward to getting that on!

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Oh and as Tegiwa were doing 10% off on Boxing Day I have also ordered some Ohlins DFV's. Just waiting on them to get delivered!
 
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