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FD eccentric lock washers for the LCA camber bolts: GB interest thread

Joined
Dec 11, 2020
Messages
16
Hello fellow FD owners.

As some of you might be aware I recently made a FD Lock Washer GB on the rx7club.com mostly for the US and Canadian markets. You can find the original GB thread under: Lock Washer GB (if I'm not allowed to share links from other forums please let me know and I will remove it). I will also be contacting the admins here on FD:OC in case I need to become an official FD:OC trader for this GB, if I do not have to become an official forum trader I'm more than happy to make a donation for every unit sold to the FD:OC forum!

Since I live between the US and EU (and just returning back to the EU) I was able to find a local supplier who is making the lock washers here. I should have 20 sets in stock in the next week or two (Christmas holidays makes the ETA a bit uncertain). Since I would be shipping them from the EU there would be no customs or VAT fees for you guys. Price is 46GBP shipped to the UK/EU for a set of 6 lock washers.

So please let me introduce the FD specific eccentric lock washers for the LCA eccentric “camber” bolts!

Some of you may already be familiar with a similar product made for the MX-5 platform by Paco Motorsports.

Unfortunately these lock washers for the MX-5 do not fit our FD platform. So I decided to make my own. I have been working on designing these for the last year, going through many iterations and prototypes. I’m finally very close to the final version!

Early FD prototype #1 on the left next to a Paco Lock washer for the MX-5 on the right (notice the tighter and more precise cut and smaller teeth on my first prototype)
Whats-App-Image-2020-05-28-at-20-46-37.jpg


For those of you who are not familiar with these lock washers, please let me explain how they work and what their purpose is.

But some basics first: On the FD front and rear subframes, where the lower control arms connect, you will notice the bolt hole is not a circle, but rather a long oval shape. This shape allows the camber bolt to be fastened in various different positions thus pushing the LCA's inward or outward which decreases or increases the camber of the wheels.

The factory eccentric bolts use washers on both ends; these washers have markings which help when making adjustments and finding the desired camber setting. In order to keep the eccentric washers and bolts in place the subframes have welded on U “guides”. This method works great and some FD owners will never have any issues with the factory eccentric washers and bolts.

Ok, now that we covered the basics we can continue with the good stuff.

Here is a simple animation of the first prototype in action!

3g71yy_95a5551bb00cd99aa7e92420f66a07e26c73eb4f.gif


So one of the downside of the factory OEM eccentric washers is that anytime the LCAs are taken off for whatever reason…ideally you would want to get your suspension alignment dialed in again.

Also there is a chance of eccentric bolts slipping during hard cornering, especially if using new sticky tires in combination with old tired bolts/washers. This never happened to me personally as I never drive my car that hard, but I’ve heard of it happening to others.

So this is where the eccentric lock washers come into play. They fully replace the factory washer, and as you can see on the following image they also use an outer ring. The outer ring sits perfectly against the walls of the factory welded on U “guides” which prevents any left-right movement. Also notice the inner washer is secured inside the outer ring using “teeth” which ensure the inner washer cannot spin out of place.

Lock-washer-FD.jpg


So other than the obvious benefit of completely eliminating any slipping or movement during hard cornering, the lock washer can also be used to dial in a certain alignment settings, which you can easily revert back to anytime the LCA’s are taken off, without having to go back to the alignment shop. Or for example, one could always have a street and track setting which they can easily change on the spot by simply adjusting the inner washer to a different position. It’s easy to keep track of the positions as you simply mark the teeth with a sharpie perhaps.

What I didn’t like about the Paco Motorsports locks is the size and number of the teeth, the larger the teeth the less available camber position angles you have available. Adding a larger number of smaller teeth increases the available positions that one could use. I’m proud to say that these locks that I made offer 21 different positions which allows for a more precise camber setting. Also I decided to make mine form Stainless Steel, while Paco made theirs from mild steel.

Also for the hard core FD guys who track their cars and only ever use one single alignment setting, they could easily tack weld the outer ring in a desired position, and never have to worry about alignment again.

The lock washers are made using 4mm thick high grade 304 stainless steel, they are cut using a top of the line laser cutting machine. My goal is to virtually eliminate any play between the inner washer and outer ring, to make sure the outer ring sits snugly against the U “guide”, as well as making sure the inner washer fits snugly on the bolt (unlike Mazda’s OEM washer which has significant play between the washer and bolts)

Mazda older style suspension bolts (D-shape) and newer style suspension bolts (H-shape)

Whats-App-Image-2017-07-30-at-00-00-03.jpg
Whats-App-Image-2017-07-30-at-00-00-03-1.jpg
Whats-App-Image-2017-07-30-at-00-00-01.jpg


So our FD’s originally came with D-shaped suspension alignment bolts, at one point Mazda changed the design to the H-shaped bolts. I designed two different inner washers to work with either the newer H-shaped bolts or the older “D” shaped bolts.

Here is the development of the 2nd prototype (3D printed for faster R&D
wink.gif
). I added teeth all the way around..

Whats-App-Image-2020-05-13-at-13-19-06.jpg
Whats-App-Image-2020-05-28-at-20-46-46-1.jpg
Whats-App-Image-2020-05-28-at-20-46-46.jpg


TLDR

Summary and key advantages:

- Custom made for the FD in the EU

- Increased number of smaller teeth for more precise camber adjustability

- Made from 304 Stainless Steel so it wont rust

- No more slipping bolts during hard cornering

- Available in D and H shaped bolt holes to accommodate older and newer style Mazda bolts

- Will be made for both front and rear lower control arms (total of 6 lock washers)

- Attention to precision and quality to ensure a tight fit while minimizing play between washers and bolts

- Price 46GBP shipped to the UK/EU (no VAT or customs fees)

Paypal link for payment: PayPal

Thanks you FD:OC for the opportunity to present my Lock Washers.

Next step is to contact the admins and see what I have to do to make this official.

Cheers!

Matt @ Split Street Motorsports


P.S. In the next post I will be sharing some interesting and important info regarding the Lock Washers
 
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I would like to share some additional info regarding the Lock Washers.

A while back when I was taking subframe measurements (U horseshoe weld widths, hole length and width etc…) I realized an inconsistency on the FD subframe U horseshoe weld widths (see image below). I have two rear subframes and one front subframe which I used for taking measurements. They all have different U horseshoe weld widths. The difference is not large, but large enough to notice a difference when trying to design a perfect snug fit between the outer part of the washer and the U weld.

Whats-App-Image-2020-06-11-at-15-44-06.jpg


In a perfect world I would of course prefer to have the outer part of the washer to fit nice and tight against the U weld, so even before you put the nut on the eccentric bolt and tighten it…there would be no play. However because of the inconsistent U horseshoe weld widths this means that one size does not fit all.

A while back I reached out to a few forum members on rx7club. I shared my lock washer designs with them and asked for their help if they could also measure their U horseshoe weld widths so I can get a better idea of what exact differences are we talking about.

So here are the numbers (in millimeters) I have so far:

My subframes

Rear subframe (factory OEM paint):

36.35

36.40

36.70

36.45

Rear subframe (sand blasted and zinc coated):

36.7

36.7

36.5

36.4

Front subframe (factory OEM paint):

36.35

36.75

36.40

36.30

36.75

36.60

36.30

36.65

Forum member 1 measurements:

36.63

36.51

36.30

36.35

Forum member 2 measurements:

Front subframe:

36.43

36.40

36.51

36.58

36.43

36.30

36.40

36.29

Rear subframe:

36.42

36.31

36.39

36.32


My FD is a 93, and forum member number 2 has a 95. So regardless of year the numbers are inconsistent.

Smallest measured is 36.3mm

Largest measured is 36.75mm

Average from the above samples is 36.46mm


For me it’s not an issue to change the width in the CAD software before I send the files to get laser cut. However a final decision had to be made. If I use the average width of 36.46, this means that on some U welds which are let’s say 36.3 wide…the outer lock washer won’t fit and some material should have to be taken off from the flat sides of the outer washer, in this specific example 0.08mm per side.

If I use the one size fits all approach…let’s say 36.3mm which is the smallest width from the sample measurements above…this means that if you use this outer washer on a U weld which is 36.75mm wide you will have 0.45mm of play…or 0.225mm per side (worst case scenario).

Now in all honesty these differences are very very small and most likely will not have any effect once the nut is tightened down, but I also know some people are very serious about their suspension and alignment settings, so I went ahead and decided to make the final width of the outer lock washer to ~36.55mm (+/- any laser machine error deviations).

***Some of you that have narrower U horseshoe welds might have to grind off a bit of material from the sides of the outer washer, which is not that hard, just make sure to grind both sides equally and try to keep the straight part of the outer washer flat to the grinding surface (see image below). Best way would be to place a sand paper sheet on a flat surface and then grind each side equally. At most you will have to grind off 0.05 to 0.15mm of material per side, no more than that should be necessary. This will ensure you have a nice and tight fit. Best practice would be to go slowly step by step and after you grind of a bit try to set it into the U weld and see how it fits.***

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-24-48-1.jpg
 
Few images showing the tight tolerances between the D bolts and lock washer:

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-26-17.jpg


Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-26-18.jpg



Few images showing the tight tolerances between the H bolts and lock washer:

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-24-47-1.jpg


Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-24-47.jpg



One set of D and one set of H:

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-24-46.jpg



The two rotor shaped holes make it easier to engage and disengage the inner and outer lock washers using needle nose pliers, and they look cool too!

Whats-App-Image-2020-12-11-at-17-24-48.jpg
 
Will you permanently have these for sale or are you just planning a limited run? They look good to me!
 
Will you permanently have these for sale or are you just planning a limited run? They look good to me!
Hi Spendyrx! Good question, so far I'm not planning to keep a large inventory as I'm not sure what the demand is and also the manufacturing cost per unit unfortunately does not go down the more I make, so regardless if I make 15 or 100 sets the cost is pretty much the same. So for now my plan is to make small batches of maybe 15-20 sets at a time. As the units get sold I can always make more runs if there is enough interest. Making less than 15 sets does increase the cost per unit.
 
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I would also like to mention that the price difference (US vs. UK/EU) is only because of the higher shipping costs. In the US I'm able to ship them out using USPS rates, which tend to be much lower than shipping rates across the EU. So in case some of you are wondering why there is a price increase ($60 vs £55) that's why. However shipping them from the US to the UK would certainly cost more, take a bit longer and might be subject to VAT and customs fees.

I based my UK shipping rates using an online shipping cost estimator. Tomorrow I will go to the post office and see if there is a more affordable alternative. If I can find a better solution I will update the price accordingly.
 
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I was looking at these over on RX7Club, look like a pretty cool product.

I'd take a set once you are able to confirm a final price, saves the couple hundred quid on decent alignment once they've been setup
Thank you Myocardial Infarction!

I'll be going to the post office this morning and hopefully I find a better shipping option.

Yeah you are right regarding the alignment. Just a quick bit of info, these lock washers can slightly increase the difficulty of setting up the alignment, as you have to engage and disengage the inner washer from the outer in order to adjust the bolt position, however once that is done and the nut is tightened down you can rest assured that everything will stay in place.
 
I don't suppose you have an option to supply them with H bolts? I would love a set of these to completely replace my existing ones.
 
Just returned from my local post office and have good news! The online shipping cost estimator I used yesterday was quite off, I believe it was not taking into account parcel weight but rather parcel size (for a small box), however I will not be using a small box but rather a small padded envelope to ship, so the shipping price went down significantly.

So the total price shipped to the UK/EU is 46 GBP

Paypal link for payment: PayPal
 
I don't suppose you have an option to supply them with H bolts? I would love a set of these to completely replace my existing ones.

Unfortunately I'm not supplying OEM bolts for now. In all honesty unless your current bolts are in bad shape (rust, damaged threads etc.) maybe it doesn't make sense replacing them, as plenty of people still run the D style bolts 30 years later with no issues.

If you are still determined to replace your bolts you can check https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mazda/fd162866zb, (as I'm not familiar with any UK based parts suppliers), that's where I got my H bolts from. If I remember correctly there are two different lengths of camber bolts on our FDs. Below is a photo of one of them along with the part number.

Whats-App-Image-2017-07-30-at-00-00-01.jpg
 
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Good news! Got these just in time before Christmas. Have to check each piece out and do some post processing. Will be ready to ship them out by Monday.

cheers and Merry Christmas!

AAA8BB2B-2B03-435C-A074-9323639007B5.jpeg
 
These look good, any tips on keeping my current geo set up when you swop these over as i've just had a full alignment done :rolleyes:
 
These look good, any tips on keeping my current geo set up when you swop these over as i've just had a full alignment done :rolleyes:

Hi, theoretically you could mark your current bolt positions, then attempt to replace the OEM washers with the lock washers and while doing so try not to change your current geo set up. While this sounds simple in theory, in reality it might not be easy as it really depends on the application, skill level, available tools and shop equipment etc.

So my suggestion is to find the best way you can take the OEM washer off without changing the bolt position, and then try to find the appropriate setting for the lock washer when replacing the OEM washer. Keep in mind that engaging and disengaging the inner lock washer from the outer can be challenging because of the tight tolerances between the two parts. I added the two rotor shaped holes on the inner lock washer which can be used to get a good grip with needle nose pliers, as you will need extra leverage to engage and disengage then two pieces.

One thing to keep in mind...is the teeth on the lock washers. I tried to make them as small as I could to allow a greater deal of adjustment. In the GIF below you can see the various positions the teeth allow you to have. So there is a chance that your current geo set up falls perfectly into one of those positions and in that case you could just take the nut off, take the washer off and slip on the lock washer in the appropriate position. However your current geo set up might actually fall exactly in-between one of the positions...this will make it more difficult to slide the lock washer on. I hope this make sense.

Lock-Washer-FD.gif


Second option is to do the alignment at the shop using the lock washers, but keep in mind the information above as the low tolerances between the pieces might make it more difficult to do and it really depends on the person at the alignment shop if they are willing to go through the extra work of engaging/disengaging the lock washers over and over again until the desired setting is found.

Best would be to consult with the alignment shop and explain to them how the lock washers work and perform. This is a custom product and most shops won’t be familiar with it.

The low tolerances between the pieces will make the alignment job more difficult and time consuming, the alignment shop guys will hate you: :D, or if you do it yourself you might hate me haha. However the obvious benefit is that once put in place the lock washers reduce play and eliminate the possibility of bolts slipping (camber geo changes) in the future.

I hope this explanations makes sense.

Matt
 
This seems like a good product, well done for putting the time into it Matt. If I had standard cam bolts and washers I would be making a purchase. Be interesting to see the tolerance when setting across different cars. In theory (ignoring subframe position tolerance), for a given ride height owners could set their camber and caster purely based on the position of the teeth. Either just needs one person to invest the time and provide an alignment for each configuration or a spread of people to post up their alignment vs teeth position. I'm all for doing my own alignment where possible based on feel and tyre wear and this really helps that process. Great concept!
 
Hi 4packet, thank you for the kind comments.

Yes I agree it would be nice if we had general numbers for certain camber/caster positions based on teeth positions. If anything...at least it could make it easier for people to decide where to start off when doing their alignment.
 
Do you still have any of these left? I'm assuming the cost will be a bit more now post-Brexit.
 
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