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Getting the car to run cooler

Damz

Active member
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
188
Even with weather getting cold I find the car is an absolute oven when driving. The cold air doesn't seem to do much and A/C is non existent.

Is there a way to retrofit an AC system or have one built for the car?.
 
Does your car have AC at the moment?

Any pics of your engine bay to get an idea of ducting etc?
 
Would interested to find a company that could fit a condencer/drier to a v mount setup.

Mine still has the compressor attach to the engine and everything under the dash....
 
Would interested to find a company that could fit a condencer/drier to a v mount setup.

Mine still has the compressor attach to the engine and everything under the dash....
I believe the greddy kit retains the factory AC and even comes with new lines
 
Chances are the pump wont be happy if it has been disconnected for a long time. You can get them reconditioned or get a good used one though.
 
You're not providing a lot of information in your question Damz. How much of the stock AC system is left? My car uses the stock Mazda components from the passenger strut back, but everything in front of that is custom or aftermarket using the compressor for the engine that is fitted. Even the control for it is custom beyond thermo switch by the evaporator as it has no ECU control anymore. I would suggest you need a good working stock compressor and evaporator at a minimum and the rest can be built with aftermarket parts around that. How much time/money are you willing to invest though?

Also check for sources of heat. Exhaust too close to the body, missing heat shields or hot air coming in to the cabin from the engine bay/tunnel or heater etc. I'm not convinced I would need to use the AC in this weather, but my installation is different and I fitted a large sheet of DEI tunnel shield to the underside and closed cell foam over the top of the tunnel and floor.
 
This /\

When I had a stock set up the cat would be oh so hot and make the tunnel warm.

Never would I say it made the car hot tho
 
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From my experience, an aftermarket stainless midpipe with emit more heat into the cabin than an oem cat with shielding intact. Now an aftermarket stainless cat, that'll emit loads of heat! Tunnel shielding reduces any heat transference greatly.

I can get the cabin temps quickly to wherever I want with working AC, the FD system works well and the cabin is tiny.
 
You're not providing a lot of information in your question Damz. How much of the stock AC system is left? My car uses the stock Mazda components from the passenger strut back, but everything in front of that is custom or aftermarket using the compressor for the engine that is fitted. Even the control for it is custom beyond thermo switch by the evaporator as it has no ECU control anymore. I would suggest you need a good working stock compressor and evaporator at a minimum and the rest can be built with aftermarket parts around that. How much time/money are you willing to invest though?

Also check for sources of heat. Exhaust too close to the body, missing heat shields or hot air coming in to the cabin from the engine bay/tunnel or heater etc. I'm not convinced I would need to use the AC in this weather, but my installation is different and I fitted a large sheet of DEI tunnel shield to the underside and closed cell foam over the top of the tunnel and floor.
The car is entirely stock, nothing changed in the engine bay. As it's getting colder outside it's actually quite nice having the heat but in summer it's unbearable
 
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