FEED style intank anti-slosh baffle tanks group buy
- Thread starter Stix44
- Start date
Latest posts
-
Any Alternative Seaming Welt Seals? (Body to Door)
- Latest: Project Tiger
-
-
I broke it quickly...And repeatedly...Chaste White Rebuild- Latest: RandomVillager
-
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2019
- Messages
- 72
I haven't but I'm planning on doing a write up when I do.
Dread
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2018
- Messages
- 92
I managed to get mine fitted at the weekend, so I took a few pics whilst I did.
This cover needs to be removed inside the tank (mine is a series 7 so not sure if they all have this) by bending the tabs that hold it in.
The fuel level sender needs to be unbolted from the cradle
Sender needs to be mounted on the baffle tank in this position at the top so it can still actuate inside the tank.
I used pop-rivets to attach
Baffle needs to be assembled in the tank in this position using the spring clips to keep it together. This is hard against the right hand side of the existing anti-surge plastic pot if looking at it from the bank of the car.
I then drilled two holes in the top of the baffle in line with the mounting tabs for the standard lid and used welding wire to lock-wire it in place to the standard tabs.
I did find (although didn't get any pics) that with the new baffle in place the fuel pump stock would foul on the bottom of the baffle and prevent the pump hanger assembly from bolting down fully so I had to chop the feed line for the pump and raise the pump up a couple of cm. All works fine though, haven't driven the car yet but I was able to put fuel in and pressure test my fuel system perfectly fine. I did do this with a totally empty tank as it had been off the car so you may need to run it low or drain the tank prior to doing this as it would be a pain with fuel in the tank.
This cover needs to be removed inside the tank (mine is a series 7 so not sure if they all have this) by bending the tabs that hold it in.
The fuel level sender needs to be unbolted from the cradle
Sender needs to be mounted on the baffle tank in this position at the top so it can still actuate inside the tank.
I used pop-rivets to attach
Baffle needs to be assembled in the tank in this position using the spring clips to keep it together. This is hard against the right hand side of the existing anti-surge plastic pot if looking at it from the bank of the car.
I then drilled two holes in the top of the baffle in line with the mounting tabs for the standard lid and used welding wire to lock-wire it in place to the standard tabs.
I did find (although didn't get any pics) that with the new baffle in place the fuel pump stock would foul on the bottom of the baffle and prevent the pump hanger assembly from bolting down fully so I had to chop the feed line for the pump and raise the pump up a couple of cm. All works fine though, haven't driven the car yet but I was able to put fuel in and pressure test my fuel system perfectly fine. I did do this with a totally empty tank as it had been off the car so you may need to run it low or drain the tank prior to doing this as it would be a pain with fuel in the tank.
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2019
- Messages
- 72
Did you earth the baffle box to the pump hanger at all? I was told without the earth the low level light won't work.
Dread
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2018
- Messages
- 92
I didn't actually. Will have to do that to avoid any issues, thanks for the tip!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2019
- Messages
- 72
Good point too!
