Cast your eyes over my sills and give opinions please.

[jdmr_neil]

While getting my mot later last year my attention was brought to my sills. The guy said they are really bad and it is only surface rust but will be scrap soon if not sorted!!!! .

I've got it on stilts today and i don't think it looks too bad. Ok not the best i know but all of the undersea is still in place, not broken away or anything. The sill beam is a bit fucked up due to many rushed jacking moments at croft but is the rust really that bad.

Regardless I'm gonna lash it with a wire brush and a flapper wheel and treat it with rust and epoxy waxoyl products but please.....

Three last one just shows the original underseal in what looks to me as pretty damn good imo.

Opinions.

 

[rob fd]

I don't think they look to bad. Like you said just get them cleaned up and sealed.

 

[Spendyrx]

You need to get that inner arch liner or black plastic thing whatever it is out of the way and clean all that area up! You may get away with filling it painting it then undersealing the bugger it's yee haww nut saves cracking out the welder!

 

[Random Dan]

Clean it back and you will know for certain how bad it is.
If it never sees the salt and not often the rain i would have thought it would be fine!

 

[Nas80]

Get a wirewheel and Googles. And a dust mask. Get that shit back down to bare metal and then show us again. Yea but defovget it done. That's at the stage you can't let it go another year without it becoming a real big issue.

I use this stuff called rust bullet on my classic cars.

 

[jdmr_neil]

Yeah that's that plan, got all the gear to get it cleaned up and sealed this next couple of weeks. It does never see salt and rarely rain but wasn't always this way tbh.

 

[JagKing]

As others have said the only way to know is to strip it all back. Can look like surface rust until you start going at it but then your welding a 5 in hole.

Go in with the view something will need some welding and then you can only be pleasantly surprised.

 

[jdmr_neil]

So the drivers side which was the worst is actually solid. Some of the surface rust has started to grain a little but the steel is ok. Some parts were the grommets are is pretty thin but it looks like it's always been thin as only small patches have much rust. The steel flapper is doing the job. Some rust treatment next then epoxy waxoyl the lot and it should be good as new.

Opinions as ever please.

 

[Spendyrx]

That's great news neil nice that you caught it early

 

[jdmr_neil]

Just plowed money into it getting it built and mapped so makes sense to sort the easy stuff.

 

[Random Dan]

Nowt wrong with that. it probably rolled out of the factory like it

 

[Siphyliss]

ATTENTION.
This is what happens when you dont take it back far enough and a shit repair by a previous owner. Well caught!

 

[skyactivr]

Glad to see it's not just me. Mine looked absolutely spotless until I went to jack it up at the rear jacking point on the sill and i heard a crunch... My anus still hasn't recovered. MOT in April so it's getting blitzed.

 

[Ceylon]

Looks like you caught it just in time. But give it all a good poke with a screwdriver to be sure. After rust conversion and epoxy it should be good. I'd cavity wax the sills too for peace of mind, sometimes fd's rot from the inside out through the sills.

 

[jdmr_neil]

Looks like you caught it just in time. But give it all a good poke with a screwdriver to be sure. After rust conversion and epoxy it should be good. I'd cavity wax the sills too for peace of mind, sometimes fd's rot from the inside out through the sills.

Yep bought internal cavity wax also

 

[jdmr_neil]

So I'm just about done, i had caught it just in time as a few places were getting pretty thin. All of it was rescue'able so have buffed everything back to solid metal. I've replaced all the 20mm rubber blanks and straightened all the sill joints. Kurust'ed everything and tectyl ml internal wax coated all internal framework. Everything has been finished off with tectyl bodyseal and took the time to lash 2 coats over everything.

Got the wheels back on now, need to clean the fuck out the garage and figure out where to Jack it to get it off the stands and down again without ruining all my hard work.

 

[rob fd]

So I'm just about done, i had caught it just in time as a few places were getting pretty thin. All of it was rescue'able so have buffed everything back to solid metal. I've replaced all the 20mm rubber blanks and straightened all the sill joints. Kurust'ed everything and tectyl ml internal wax coated all internal framework. Everything has been finished off with tectyl bodyseal and took the time to lash 2 coats over everything.

Got the wheels back on now, need to clean the fuck out the garage and figure out where to Jack it to get it off the stands and down again without ruining all my hard work.

Center of the cross member for the front and diff for the rear.

 

[Daston]

How's the best method of getting wax into the sills? Drill a hole and feed a pipe in? Or is there grommets that can be used?

 

[Ceylon]

How's the best method of getting wax into the sills? Drill a hole and feed a pipe in? Or is there grommets that can be used?

The FD is riddled with access holes and bungs, no need to drill .

Other places they always go is the rear box sections above the fuel tank (Rear bumper off job to do properly), cavity between the rear arch and rear bumper, cavity at the beginning of the floorpan and rear of front arches. Another good one to do is between the arch skins for the rear to prevent the arches going (Boot plastics out job). I did every cavity on the car, If you do similar just make sure you remove the interior first or your car will smell of cavity wax for months if not forever. If you want to know what the cavities look like and how to access them, there are some decent diagrams that show every access hole and cavity in the body repair manual. There are cavities within cavities for the main sills, you need to go in from a few places to get complete coverage.

 

[skyactivr]

The FD is riddled with access holes and bungs, no need to drill .

Other places they always go is the rear box sections above the fuel tank (Rear bumper off job to do properly), cavity between the rear arch and rear bumper, cavity at the beginning of the floorpan and rear of front arches. Another good one to do is between the arch skins for the rear to prevent the arches going (Boot plastics out job). I did every cavity on the car, If you do similar just make sure you remove the interior first or your car will smell of cavity wax for months if not forever. If you want to know what the cavities look like and how to access them, there are some decent diagrams that show every access hole and cavity in the body repair manual. There are cavities within cavities for the main sills, you need to go in from a few places to get complete coverage.

Thanks for this